Whitening Cosmetics and Pigment Metabolism
Melanin anabolism is divided into different periods. Scientists believe that it is feasible to study whitening agents and work for different metabolic periods.
(1) Early stage of melanin synthesis
① Interfere with the transcription and/or glycosylation of tyrosinase; ② Inhibit regulators in the formation of tyrosinase; ③ Post-transcriptional control of tyrosinase.
(2) Melanin synthesis period
As the key enzyme and rate-limiting enzyme for melanin synthesis, tyrosinase inhibitors are the main research and development direction at present. Since most whitening agents such as phenol and catechol derivatives are structurally similar to tyrosine and dopa, the whitening agents screened are often classified as non-competitive or competitive inhibitors of tyrosinase.
(3) Late stage of melanin synthesis
①Inhibits melanosome transfer; substances with serine protease inhibitory effect, such as rwj-50353, completely avoid UBV-induced epidermal pigmentation; soybean trypsin inhibitor has obvious whitening effect but has no effect on the toxicity of pigment cells ; Niacinamide, can hinder the transmission of melanocytes between melanocytes and keratinocytes; ② Melanin dispersion and metabolism, α-hydroxy acid, free fatty acid and retinoic acid, stimulate cell renewal and promote melaninized keratinocytes of removal.
It is worth noting that the research and application of whitening substances based on the above melanin metabolism are not suitable for the prevention and treatment of senile plaques. Since the mechanism of senile plaque formation is related to the formation of lipofuscin, antioxidative active substances are commonly used to delay and reverse senile plaques.
Post time: Jul-29-2022